The delicacies at Harvey Home could be described as up to date continental: higher Midwest with a powerful French affect. The vibe is slightly bit steakhouse (shrimp cocktail, rib eye, duck), slightly bit regionally grown (shishito peppers, wild rice) and loads of delicate approach.
Intense consideration to element hyperlinks florets of crème fraiche on salmon tartare to a quarter-inch-thin cap of toasted pumpernickel crowning a filet of walleye. It’s all finely tuned, layered, virtually delicate.
All of this invitations diners to pause. Pull aside the pigs-in-a-blanket riff, through which kielbasa with cheddar is smoked and stuffed inside a candy brioche bun. Swipe it by way of grainy mustard — the mix is traditional for a purpose. Each a part of it, smoky, candy and spicy, is smart.
Chilly corn soup, velvety and summer-sweet, recalled one thing I learn as soon as a couple of Thomas Keller sorrel soup, described by Ruth Reichl as “the essence of inexperienced.” The corn soup at Harvey Home rings the identical bells, just like the kitchen took corn and made it style one way or the other extra, purely, like itself.
There are locations on the menu the place approach is subtly seen, just like the pop of inexperienced within the spätzle accompanying completely cooked walleye, or stuffed-and-breaded rooster sous-chef with the bone nonetheless in, like a lamb lollipop or a state truthful turkey leg. The latter seems to be like a celebration trick, and it’s tacky, heavy and rattling good. (When’s the final time you noticed from-scratch sous-chef on a menu?).